The taverns of the Upper Tâmega: when a region reveals itself through its cuisine

In a presentation focusing on the Alto Tâmega taverns project, chef Vítor Adão and cultural manager Teresa Vivas explained how gastronomy can act as a driving force for cultural preservation and rural economic development in Portugal. The project, supported by Turismo de Portugal, is based on the revitalisation of a network of 14 small farmhouses converted into taverns, which have been in operation since 2004 and are spread across six municipalities, including Montalegre, Boticas and Chaves.

At the heart of the initiative is the promotion of local products with PDO and PGI status, such as meat from the native Maronesa and Barrosã breeds, mountain-raised kid and Bísaro pork, all incorporated into a cuisine that recreates the recipes of previous generations. Authenticity is also upheld in symbolic terms: the network’s branding features a cast-iron frying pan and the slogan ‘you only eat like this here’ to emphasise a way of life tied to producing what one eats.

Adão and Vivas emphasised that the taverns are not mere tourist attractions, but living spaces where diners can watch food being prepared, visit wine cellars, meet livestock farmers or mushroom foragers — in a region boasting 74 varieties, 54 of which are edible — and forge a direct relationship with those who produce the food. Since 2019, the project has stepped up its outreach by inviting international journalists and generating coverage in major media outlets, which has helped to consolidate demand, to the point where booking in advance is now essential.

The speakers explained that the network operates under a strict curation process: only taverns that respect local produce, traditions and a rustic yet contemporary aesthetic are included, ensuring the area does not become a rural ‘Disneyland’. They also emphasised that, despite stringent health regulations, Portugal allows artisanal production—cured meats, cheeses, fish and game—to be reconciled with food safety, which is key to the viability of these small businesses. The result, they concluded, is a model that can be replicated across the country, demonstrating that a region can tell its story, defend its identity and sustain itself economically through its taverns.